The Amalfi coast, one of Italy’s most precious jewels sparkles a brilliant sapphire underneath the bright golden sun, the mere sight of which is enough to bewitch, entrance, or enslave even the most jaded spectator. Legend has it that during the 2nd temptation of Christ, Satan showed Jesus this very landscape as a representation of the beauty of all the Earth’s kingdoms he stood to lose in death. One look at Ravello and I knew I was no Jesus Christ, because I would chose this scenery over anything almost any day of the week.
Ravello is one of 5 fabulous main villages that make up this stretch of coastline, as well as Scala, Positano, Atrani, and Amalfi, and all are connected by a precariously beautiful stretch of highway that offers some of the area’s most stunning views. The Amalfi coast isn’t just prized for its fabulous beaches, historic beauty, glistening panoramas, musical events, and vibrant nightlife; it’s also a convenient home base for visits to Napoli, Sorrento, Pompeii, Capri, etc. Though definitely becoming ever more the tourist hot spot as years go on, one can still save money and experience a bit more local flavor in these smaller towns than perhaps lodging in the larger cities. A clean sea breeze never did anyone any harm either.
Here in Ravello I found just the right amount of luxury and service blended with the colorful thread of local history known as the Palumbo Hotel. Known as Palazzo Confalone in the 12th century, bits of everyone to have passed through today remain to add flavor and an eclectic series of personal touches to the hotel. With a mere 21 rooms, service is kept simple, personal, and at the top of its class. Each room features antiques furnished by the Vuilleumier family and each room reflects a different style so as to cater to every taste and inspire every imagination. A true masterpiece resides in the restaurant’s 17th century dining hall, a painting of St. John the Baptist executed by one of Caravaggio’s students.
The soul of this hotel and maybe the soul of most places in Italy, can be experienced through the sensory delights of its food and wine. Cantina Episcopio, Palumbo’s winery has delivered service of the most exquisite nature since 1860, providing the perfect backdrop and atmosphere for travelers, celebrities, socialites, and artists.
And the eating and drinking doesn’t just stop at the hotel bar and restaurant. Due to its privileged location, Ravello boasts only the freshest of fresh seafood dishes, inviting lovers of fish to dive right in. Backing that up with primarily locally grown produce is a recipe for deliciousness that simply can’t be passed up. And the hotel staff was more than happy to pitch in some great recommendations.
As if the gardens at Villa Cimbrone aren’t enough of a draw in and of themselves, Il Flauto di Pan is a nice way to relax, refill, and refresh with some lovingly grown local ingredients. In fact, much of the organic vegetation is actually grown right here, in the restaurant’s own garden.
The Belvedere restaurant at Hotel Caruso is a much more formal option, but definitely worth a taste or 3. With its lovely historic building and spectacular sea views, one simply couldn’t ask for a better Amalfi dining experience, be it lunch or dinner. A lover of shellfish I had the spaghetti (apparently it’s handmade) with mussels and caciocavallo; an absolute delight! For something a bit above par and a higher level of class, this is truly a divine choice.
But my most wonderful experience was booked by the caring concierges at my very own hotel, and was so wonderful because it was rewarding. I always like to take something home with me, food for thought, or memories to savor, and Mamma Agata’s cooking class was exactly what I was looking for. A delightful woman who has been cooking since she was 13 years old, Mamma Agata has wowed everyone from Elisabeth Taylor to Humphrey Boghart to Jackie O. herself, with her kitchen wizardry, and today offers half day classes for only 185 euros per person, including lunch and wine. While her husband grows many of her essential ingredients in the family garden and makes the limoncello by hand, her daughter provides translation, all working together in harmony to keep these valuable traditions alive.
For novices like myself and most visitors, Mamma Agata keeps it simple, sticking to Italian staples like spaghetti and tomato sauce, and chicken marinated in lemons and herbs. Later, you enjoy your creations together on her deck simultaneously feasting on authentic Italian delights and one of the most breathtaking views of the Mediterranean ever. And no meal is complete without her husband’s limoncello. For other prices she can also organize dinner on her deck, served at sunset, and though I myself didn’t experience it, I’m sure it makes for the perfect romantic evening.
Whether revelling in Ravello for the cuisine, rich history, natural air, lively atmosphere or sparkling vistas, this little Amalfi gem caters to absolutely every taste and the Palumbo Hotel is the ideal home base for such an adventure.