I first remember hearing the word “origin” when I was about 3 years old. My father, the son of a Presbyterian minister, was debating the Origin of Species with my mother over dinner. Like any good Presbyterian he was an evolutionist- not that I knew what origin, evolutionist or Presbyterian meant way back then. The next time the word “origin” became important to me was when I was at University. It was not part of my official studies, but rather a fundamentally important concept relating to my part-time job as a wine waiter at one of Wellingtons new 5 star hotels. We were taught that not only was grape variety important in determining the character of a particular wine, but also the origin- the specific area or appellation where the grapes where grown. A sauvignon blanc grape grown, picked and vinted in Marlborough, New Zealand, would display very different aroma, taste and body compared to the same grape varietal grown in Margaret River, Western Australia. It is for this reason that wine labeling clearly displays the origin, grape type as well as the year that the wine is made. It is to tell the customer exactly what to expect in the bottle. We were taught to pick the difference between a Chardonnay and a Riesling, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Pinot Noir. To start with it was a little difficult to pick the “cut grass, gooseberry, ripe lime” in a Sav-Blanc, or the “Deep ripe plum, soft peppergrass” of a Cab-Sav, but it soon became part and parcel of our lives as wine stewards.

Fast forward to the modern error. These days “Origin” is not only a very important part of my job working with coffee, it is also a word that sometimes wakes me at night, like a the noise of a rusty file scraping over a old, painted blackboard. Origin, in coffee, is not as simple or as transparently honest as many coffee proffesionals would like it to be.

The ICO, or International Coffee Organisation, is somewhat responsible for controlling origin labels on coffee in the fact that any coffee shipped from a growing country must be accompanied by a Certificate of Origin. However… the shipper of the coffee often will fill out the ICO form- adding the origin in as he/she sees fit. The system is based on honesty. If the coffee is Arabica grown in Java, the origin certificate should correctly read “Java Arabica” along with the appropriate grade, weight etc. It should not read “Sumatra Mandehling”, “Bali Arabica” or “Sulawesi Toraja Arabica”. That I am writing this means that it is sadly sometimes fact, not fiction, that mislabeling sometimes intentionally occurs.

Why is this wrong? For starters put aside the fact that it is fraud, misrepresentation and lying, it is more importantly doing huge disservice to the true coffee coming from that origin. Coffee, like wine, has a particular character that is found in the beans growing in a particular geographical area. In fact the flavor of coffee, more so than wine, is almost entirely molded by where it is grown. Take 100 identical seedlings of Typica Arabica and send 25 plants to Aceh, 25 to Central Java, 25 to Flores and 25 to Indonesian Papua. 6 years later the cherries from these trees, ripe and processed, will display vastly different tastes (or cupping characteristics).

To most coffee professionals it is simply a preposterous presumption that anyone would try and mislabel coffee on purpose. Yet, it happens. Sometimes the deceit fools even hardened regulars. Not too many years ago there were two big cases of coffee fraud- one involving fake Hawaiian Kona coffee, the other Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. In both cases the origins were mislabeled because both Jamaica and Hawaii coffees demand a premium on the world market. In both cases the perpetrators were eventually caught out.

Think of it this way- if you were to buy a brand new BMW, you would expect the engine not to have already done 100,000km, and the body not to have been panel beaten to make the car look brand new. If someone tried to pass off such a used vehicle as new- that would be serious fraud.

The more common problem, and one which is beginning to cause real problems for coffee as a quality product, is not the blatant examples of cheating but rather what is call the ‘creeping boundary of origin’ (or CBO). Many years ago coffee origins were perhaps more clearly defined by geographics than they are today. For instance, in Indonesia Mandehling Coffee was picked and marketed from a fairly small area in North Sumatra- thus meaning the characteristics of that coffee were as clear to the drinker as day is to night. These days the geographical or ‘catchment’ area “Mandehling” comes from is 15-20 bigger than what it was 25 years ago. This means that almost by default the characters that the coffee was once famous for- the ripe paprika, fresh cut grass, passion fruit and earthiness are very seldom found to the same degree as coffee from that area today. Its like saying that Italians are the same as Germans. They are not. Lines are drawn on the map- Italians are Italians, Germans are…well…Germans. The French- they have perhaps identified this problem and dealt with it strictly. Not in regards to coffee, but to the labeling of one of their national treasures: Champagne. Only grapes grown and vinted in a particular way, with in a strictly identified area, may be called “Champagne”. Anything else can only be called “Methode Champagne” or similar. Seems pedantic? Coffee should look at this as being part of a solution to a problem which longterm threatens to affect customer perception of coffee in general.

Recently on a trip to coffee savvy New Zealand, a coffee professional was surprised to find just how the problem of labeling origin incorrectly can conspire to creating changes in perception of the customer. He was meeting with an eminent marketing guru who had brought along some material a well known company had put out to support its product. The professional was was not surprised to see “Java” and “Sumatra” on the list of coffee that this company sold. What was surprising was the fact that “Java” was a described as a blend of Guatamalan and Sumatran and “Congo” a blend of Colombian and Sumatran. As in the above European example- Java is likewise not Guatemala or Sumatran!

On the positive side many coffee professionals realise that the future of specialty coffee is going small, not labeling big/expansive origins. Small is easier to define, more difficult for unscrupulous brokers to mislabel. The SCAA’s Cup of Excellence Awards recognise quality origins may be as small as a tiny Finca producing 1000kg of coffee a year. This think small, produce superior beans idea hopefully will result in a better cup of coffee.

In the end thats what it is all about. Despite the complexities of choice faced at a coffee shop, ultimately the customer wants a great cup of Java. However if he wants “Java”it should be the coffee grown on that Indonesian Island, not a mixture of beans from Africa and South America. And if its pure Kopi Luwak that customer is looking for? Well then that is another story altogether.

As a culinary art, creating exceptional gourmet coffee is similar to the creation of an exceptional wine. Each crop, and even different harvests of the same crop, will have unique characteristics that result from differing conditions over time with respect to the soil, temperature, water, time of harvest, etc.

High quality Specialty coffees are harvested over time from the same plant during the growing season as the beans ripen, leaving the green ones until they are ready. This process creates early and late crops containing differing percentages of nutrients and moisture content affecting the flavor characteristics of the beans. ‘Specialty” grade coffees are distinctly superior to those coming from the mechanical harvesting resulting in the bulk of coffees grown for ‘grade’ coffees sold on the worlds commodity exchanges.

These factors necessitate the coffee roaster to continuously select coffees with the necessary profile of body, taste, acidity and other attributes to meet the objective of the end product in order to consistently maintain a semi-predictable expectation for the consumer.

Each coffee blend will be a combination of these carefully chosen coffees from the current harvest, blended together in a complimentary fashion to achieve numerous variations of flavor, aroma and complexity.

Flavor Descriptions

Mocha Java is the earliest known descriptive coffee flavor known for its delicious full bodied and bittersweet chocolate highlights. Early cocoa was named after the Mocha coffee from Yemen.

Latin American coffees that achieve Specialty grade are almost all grown at very high altitudes compared with the coffees of Africa. In general these coffees are known for their full body, acidity and spicy flavors.

Africa is where coffee originated from. Its soil and climate combination produces outstanding coffees that have an exceptional balance of body and refined acidity creating distinctive aromas of flowers and fruit, with complex flavors ranging from citrus to winy.

Espresso will have a stout body and rich coffee essence, with thick creamy consistency as a result of the inclusion of more soluble beans blended with others that add desired flavors. Bold and robust are descriptions often used to describe a desirable espresso. An Italian style espresso will often include ‘natural’ or unwashed beans that help enhance its creamy consistency. These dry processed coffees are not typically considered Specialty grade, but are what create a traditional espresso flavor.

Natural or ‘unwashed’ coffees contribute nutty and earthy flavors, while ‘washed’ Specialty coffees are known for their desirable acidity and refined flavors that are essential to the master roasters ability to create a variety of gourmet style blends.

Specialty gourmet blends are the result of blending specifically selected coffees to achieve any combination of well-rounded, complex, rich, mellow, smooth and even exotic flavors in the final cup.

I’ll have one latte with a sprinkle of Silicon Valley, and could you put that in a wine glass please! Intelligentsia, Silver Lake. What can you say. First things first.

For those who have not had the opportunity to visit Silver Lake and the Intelligentsia coffee shop it’s well worth the trip. Both coffee and staff are exceptional, they have free wifi, and being in Silver Lake the people are generally nice.

While you are there you will generally see plenty of neighborhood people with their pets walking around. They also have very large windows if you like to read inside or outside they have outdoor seating and most of that is shaded.

If you go on the weekends a farmers market is open near-by. Not a bad start if you are looking for a place to enjoy a good cup of coffee and relax.

However the downside can be many. Sometimes the lines are long, the drinks can be expensive and parking in their lot can be a mess. They don’t seem to have or wish to promote a large variety like many coffee shops.

Also Intelligentsia is just that, and the clientele can be a bit much, especially if your main coffee house is something like a Starbucks. Through out the line you’ll see macbooks, smart phones and people scribbling on pads and many times you wonder if you’re in a coffee shop or Silicon Valley. However this is “Intelligentsia,” and it is one of many Landmark Coffee Houses in one of the most unique areas you will find in the country.

The people behind the bar are well trained. When things begin to stack up they move fast and get people through the line quickly with their coffee. In all the times I’ve had coffee at the Intelligentsia I have yet to see anybody truly complain about the taste or quality of the coffee.

There is nothing I love more than espresso, and their espresso is right on the money!

The next time you visit the Intelligentsia or your favorite coffee house see if you can get a good view of the barista as he,she makes your espresso, and you will be amazed at just how close you can come in judging a good espresso.

What you will see is the barista grinding the roast, scooping the roast into a portafilter, and tamping (applying pressure) to the grounds and then finishing with a slight twist. What he’s doing is making a little disk just like a little sports puck in the bottom of the portafilter.

This entire process is to make sure the coffee is evenly distributed and compressed. If there are loose spots, weak spots, the high pressure of most commercial espresso machines will shoot right through. Also look at the grind. Normally the coffee will be very fine,very compact, and the color will generally be a dark roast. Brew time will normally be under 30 seconds and when the espresso begins to stream out the color will look almost like maple syrup. Also the flow will be smooth and consistent, not too fast or too slow.

The 30 seconds just a guideline. But it is taken seriously by connoisseurs because any thing after 30 seconds and the espresso flow pulls too much acidity and caffeine. And both will add nothing but bitterness to your espresso.

If you have ever watched and wondered why a barista is pulling the demitasse before all the espresso has finished and wasting good espresso this is the reason why.

It is true today, that more and more coffee shops are doing their own thing, making their own specialty blends. This is exactly how they establish a clientele by offering the public their own unique blends and building their brand. But they all start with a base espresso and go from their.

Espresso is the basis, the foundation of almost every popular drink you will find today. No matter which coffee shop you go to, no matter east or west coast, if the espresso is not right you will taste it in the drink. There is no middle ground. No in between when it comes to espresso. You either make a good espresso or you don’t.

Augustus Smith

A well trained Barista or Coffee Chef will add so much value to your coffee business since many of the big names in the coffee shop business like Starbucks are focused on mass production. That counts entirely in your favor because it gives you the opportunity to create rich and tasty coffees that looks beautiful too. Franchise owners can not do as they please to increase profits they must stick to the rules of the Franchisor.

As the owner of your coffee shop attending a beginners barista training course of five to six hours with your coffee shop manager and barista or baristas will give you a solid background on the ground rules of espresso, espresso based drinks and the craft and science behind it. This is important because it is like learning the alphabet of coffee. Knowing the fundamentals of your business namely coffee will greatly ad to your creativity and success. It places you in the position to continuously out think your opposition until there is no opposition left just copycats.

The next step is to increase the knowledge of your manager, your barista and yourself by attending an intermediate barista course that builds upon the knowledge of the basic course, an intermediate course will focus on developing an appreciation and taste for espresso assisting you in appraising different types of espresso, similar to wine tasting. This knowledge will help you to better profile and pair the espressos. Milk texturing techniques will also form part of this training course a prerequisite for coffee art or latte art.

Contrary to popular belief you do not need to be artistic in order to create beautiful cups of espresso this is a skill that can be taught and like any other skill the more you practice it the better you will become at latte art. Most people are creative anyway, it just a matter of developing the skill and learning the techniques that will help you to produce beautiful looking coffees that taste great too. This new extension to your coffee menu will attract coffee lovers that enjoy beautiful and tasty coffee that pleases the eyeballs and the palate.

Coffee art or latte art course is your next step to creating espressos that your clients can dream about and that will turn them into your greatest promoters that will have your coffee house brimming over with repeat clients that not only nourish your bank account but bring you fame. Unfortunately you must first know and understand the basics before you can attend latte art classes, without the basic knowledge and skills your end results will be very disappointing.

Knowing how to make great looking and tasting espressos is imperative to you as a coffee shop owner for various reasons. Should your manager or your barista fall ill, die or resign your coffee music will seamlessly continue to satisfy your patrons without missing a beat. You will have the knowledge to train your next barista or manager on short notice making you interdependent of your staff and not dependent. It is very important to always be in control of your business your life and your future.

Twenty years ago the word espresso was enough to send people running – drink /that? /The mere idea of offering half a cup of coffee at twice the strength and often twice the price, espresso was hardly a household word.  It is only recently that espresso can claim to have stolen the limelight away from its other coffee competitors.   The invention of the spring piston by Gaggia in 1946 revolutionized the method by which pressure is achieved without boiling water.

Since I consider espresso to be the at the forefront of the complete coffee experience, let me explain my bias.  The complex technology of the espresso machine (scientific) must be combined with care and a skilled technique (artistic) to pull a perfect espresso.  The result marvels both tongue and eye; the tongue because the complexity of flavor from the first quick sip is so full of promise, and the eye because, like wine, you can learn a lot about what you are about to taste from just looking at it.

If you do a lot of things right when you are making espresso, it will taste as good as it smells.  I’m not making this up.  But there are a lot of variables that can mess up your espresso and it’s a long list so I’ll tell you about them in my next article but controlling these elements is worth the result especially if you’re a bit of a fanatic – this article is about tasting espresso.  Meanwhile you’ve got your short espresso in front of you.  Before you taste it, stick your nose into the cup and breathe in.  The intense aroma should please you, even with a sharp edge to it.  This is the moment where you anticipate the taste.  Sip a small amount and let it follow to the back of your tongue, and around your entire mouth.  Now douse the entire shot.  Now, think back a moment – was the “crema” a creamy caramel color unbroken and thick?  Can you recall more than one taste?  Did you drink it neat?  How many tastes could you discern?

In developing our Cafe Espresso house blend, we start with a strong base note of dark-roasted Mexican coffee, somewhat acidity and yet sweet.  We add some Ethiopian medium roast for chocolate and floral overtones and finish the blend with a lighter Kenyan AA or sometimes a Guatemalan for a brightness often described as citrus.  The competing depth of flavors from sip to finish should invite you to linger.  Want another?

The Europeans got their first taste of Turkish Coffee, and coffee in general from the Ottoman Turks, who brought coffee to the West. They were great coffee drinkers, both at home and in public houses, the forerunners of our cafés, which started to spring up across the Islamic countries. Turkish coffee became part of the Turks life and was known as the “Wine of Islam” and the “Milk of Chess Players and Thinkers”.

Turkish coffee is derived from the famous Arabica coffee bean, often the addition of the aromatic Cardamom spice is added to the coffee while it is being ground. Another method boils seeds with the coffee and lets them float to the top when served.

Traditionally Turkish Coffee has six levels of sweetness from ranging from very sweet to black. Sugar is not added to the coffee after it has been served. As the coffee begins to heat, it begins to foam. A rule of the traditional Turkish coffee ceremony states that if the foam is absent from the coffee, the host loses face. Turkish coffee is served hot from a special pot called a cezve.

You wont need a cezve pot to make this Turkish coffee recipe
In order to make your own brew of “Milk of Thinkers”, heat water in a pan, add coffee and sugar to taste. Bring to boil. Pour half of the coffee into demitasse cups and return the remaining coffee to the heat and bring back to boil. Spoon off the foam and gently place into each cup without stirring. You’ll need 1 1/2 cups of cold water, 4 teaspoons of strong dark roast coffee and about 4 teaspoons of sugar.

You can try adding cardamom if you like the taste. After some experimenting, you’ll have an almost authentic Turkish coffee.

Many of us drink coffee because we like the taste or “need” the stimulation of caffeine. However, as with anything that is woven into the cultural fabric of so many countries coffee has a history that contributes to its worldwide popularity today. So, sit back and discover “the rest of the story.” I’ll sip a cup while writing this article.

The Popularity of Coffee: An Historical Prospective

In 850 coffee was discovered by a goat herder in Ethiopia who notices his goats are friskier after eating strange red berries. But the internet was slower then and coffee wasn’t cultivated for another 250 years on the Arabian Peninsula. Because Arab Muslims are forbidden to drink alcohol they made a beverage from plants called “qahwa.” It was here, at around the year 1100, that the beans were first roasted and boiled.

What wine was to the Europeans, coffee became to the Arabs. In 1475 the worlds first coffee shop opens in Constantinople. Two more follow 80 years later.

As trade routes were established from Arabia into Africa and Europe this new bean, and beverage, enters Europe through the port of Venice and by 1654 the first coffeehouses open in Italy. As the Europeans established trade routes around the world coffee was a main component of trade.

Coffee is introduced to the New World by Captain John Smith, who established Virginia. While the colonists enjoyed both tea and coffee with a preference for tea, British taxation of tea, and with the history that followed, caused coffee to become the hot beverage of choice for most Americans.

The Role of the Coffeehouse

Just as restaurants opened to satisfy the social need of people, in addition to the biological, coffeehouses allowed people soon to sit down together and enjoy coffee outside of their homes.

Soon, an association between coffee and with social interaction began to form. Arabs began to view coffee as a social drink, similar to our view in modern times. But Arabs also saw it as an intellectual drink calling it “the milk of thinkers and chess players.”

Something similar happened in England. Because a penny is charged for admission and a cup of coffee, coffeehouses are called “penny universities.” Edward Lloyd’s coffeehouse opens in 1688 and eventually becomes Lloyd’s of London, the world’s best known insurance company. The word “TIPS” is coined in an English coffee house: A sign reading “To Insure Prompt Service” (TIPS) was place by a cup. Those desiring prompt service and better seating threw a coin into a tin.

Worldwide Cultivation

With its popularity growing it was inevitable that the cultivation could not be contained in Arabia. In 1690, the Dutch become the first to transport and cultivate coffee commercially. Coffee is smuggled out of the Arab port of Mocha and transported to Ceylon and East Indies for cultivation.

At around 1723, plants are introduced in the Americas for cultivation. A French naval officer transports a seedling to Martinique and by 1777, 1.92 billion coffee plants are cultivated on the island. The Brazilian coffee industry gets its start in 1727 with seedlings smuggled out of Paris.

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Espresso Coffee

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Cheers!

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Cheers!