May
9

Germany Travel Tip – Wurstmarkt In Bad Durkheim



If you plan a trip to Germany, mark the 11th – 15th and the 18th – 21st of September 2009 in your calendar. Those are the weekends to join the festivities in Bad Dürkheim, along the wine route in the Rhineland-Palatinate.

The “Wurstmarkt” wine festival in Bad Dürkheim, in the most beautiful part along the “Weinstrasse”, Rhineland-Palatinate, is an annual Festival that takes place on 2 following weekends in September. Looking back to nearly 600 years of history, the event changed from being originally a meeting point for local farmer and winegrower, attracted by the pilgrims who came to the small chapel on top of the mountain “St. Michaelsberg” every year on the 29th of September. Centuries went by and the originally religious event became a folk festival, which attracts nowadays several hundred thousand visitors on each 2nd and 3rd weekend in September. On the fairground, next to the town’s giant wine barrel, it becomes clear that wine plays a big role during the festival, beside the sausages. Local wines and sparkling wines “Sekt” are served in classic, stemmed glasses or are generously poured in half liter glasses. “Wurstmarkt” is a culinary extravaganza and keeps on attracting ever growing numbers of visitors throughout the world.

The name Wurstmarkt or sausage-market is a bit misleading, since it is in fact the largest wine festival in the world. On the fairground in the open or in tents local wine growers will let you taste the best wines of the regions. Many activities are planned for this year with life concerts, be it traditional German music or Dixieland style. Carousels and sweets will enjoy the small visitors, fried and barbecued sausages come in all shapes and sizes and a romantic firework with a glorious silver and golden light display will make it an unforgettable stay in Bad Dürkheim.

The roots of this event go far back to the year 1155, when the Monte sancti Michaelis was first documented. In those days pilgrims came every year to the small chapel on the mountain St. Michaelsberg to buy a letter of indulgence, which would free them of their sins. Since a large number of pilgrims came every year on the 29th of September, local farmers and wine growers seized the opportunity and sold mainly wine, sausages and bread, transported on wheel barrows. The event was called later in 1417 Michaelismarkt and attracted merchants, impostors and musicians. Already in the 16th century merchants from all over the Palatinate joined in the very popular fair. The range of the offered goods included back then oxen, horses, pigs and all products of local handicrafts. Finally, in 1577, the Michaelismarkt was moved to the nearby Brühlwiesen. At the end of the 18th century the fair was already held on 3 days, Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays.

The year 1832 was the first time, that the name Wurstmarkt was officially used. The reason for that was simply the huge amount of sausages eaten during the fair! In 1879 the first Wurstmarktzeitung, a newspaper, was published and in 1882 was the first time a Nachmarkt, after-market, was held on the Sunday after the original 3 days weekend fair. At that time, a circus was the biggest attraction for the visitors. The only time when there were no sausages on sale, was after the Second World War, during which no fair was held. Because of the lack of meat the sausage-fair became a fish-fair in 1948 and every visitor could only purchase 1 bottle of wine. Time went by and in the year 1966 over 200,000 liters of wine were sold and nowadays the Wurstmarkt is undoubtedly the biggest wine festival in the world.

This is an example of what you can do in Bad Dürkheim while traveling in Germany. If you want learn more about Bad Dürkheim we compiled a more comprehensive Bad Durkheim travel guide in collaboration with local residents that provides unique travel insider tips which you can use during you Germany vacation.

Apr
25

A Very Short Story Out Of: Augsburg and Vietnam



A Very Short Story out of: Augsburg and Vietnam

When they had to say good-bye, at the American Hotel, in Augsburg, December, 1970, they kissed, but there had been a month of quarreling, and somehow it didn’t seem over, completely finished. He felt ailing, somewhat unwell about saying good-by like that.

He went to Vietnam on a 747 Jet from Augsburg, Germany, first landing in Minnesota for a thirty-day leave, and then onto Seattle, Washington for jungle training, fifty-days later, he was landing in Cam Ranh Bay.

It was lonely, hot and rainy there. After another month, his German-Jewish girlfriend, Chris Stewart had written him, said she was sorry, but she didn’t want to wait for him, that there relationship was over; she wanted to go on with her life. To forgive her, but that was how she felt (-she had leukemia). It wasn’t absolutely unexpectedly, I mean he really didn’t expect to marry her; they never did talk on the subject. He knew it was perhaps the best solution, if indeed a solution was called for.

Three times he got gonorrhea while in Vietnam, three times, and then he stopped his loose behavior, and paid more attention to the war.

After a while, when it got dark in the evenings, and all there was were the night lights, and searchlights, and the light of the moon, he took out his wine bottle, and beer cans, and drank. It made him cool and fresh in the hot nights, if not a little depressed and forgetful.

And they had a joke about a friend who got gonorrhea so many times in their company area, that he got a bent spine and had to be sent to Japan for treatment. He would walk up and down the wooden sidewalks at the company area, holding onto a bamboo stick used as a cane, he was twenty-seven years old.

When he’d forget about that loose behavior, thinking about prowling about-to feed that youthful male lust, he’d remember his pal, with the bamboo stick, in Japan. They all liked him, thought he was quite the guy, but he had that cane, and bent spine.

For a while, for perhaps three or four months, when it got dim and quiet during the nights, he wondered how Chris was, and then after that, after those passing months, he stopped wondering, she was no longer part of his hours of darkness.

#881 (3-5-2012)

Apr
20

A Winter’s Evening in Augsburg (1970)



Inside the nightclub (disco) it was warm and lit up, sections, the lower, and the rounded balcony. The mugs of beer glowed with the wood of the tables, waitress were cleaning some off, and young customers were eating pretzels, popcorn and chips, seated and gazing about for girls, everyone appeared to be happy and content. Outside the nightclub, it was a chilly winter’s evening.

Two American soldiers (Ski and Christopher Wright) sat together at a side table, overlooking the dance floor; there was a clock that was way high on the wall. A waitress took their order, and brought Christopher a large cold beer, and Ski, who sipped on his, while the other Christopher downed his like water.

After a few more drinks, Ski was still on his first, but Christopher was on his third, “Can I bring you coffee, sir?” asked the waitress to Ski, thinking perhaps he was the driver for the two of them, and didn’t want to get in an accident.

“No,” he said, “I’m fine.”

“She thinks the coffee will keep me awake,” said Ski to his friend.

“Bring me another beer,” yelled Christopher to a passing waitress.

“Thank you Fraulein,” he said as she picked up two marks from the table.

“Do you speak German,” she asked Christopher, since he and Ski looked like they may have some German in them, “No,” Christopher said, “Maybe a little,” he added with a smile.

“Oh, yes, sir, I speak English, some.” She said and moved on another table.

“Look over there,” said Ski, “That gal is checking you out,” and he looked, “should I ask her if she wants to dance with you?” he asked Christopher.

“No,” I can if indeed she is directing those looks at me, perhaps its coincidental, she’s just looking about.”

“Mademoiselle!” yelled Ski, catching her attention through the loud music and dancing, she was two tables away.

“Yes sir,” she said, with a cleaver smile.

Christopher watched her close, she looked thin, a few years older than he, perhaps Jewish-German with a little hook on the nose, pretty, with blue eyes, and brownish hair, and she had a glass of wine in her hands. She spoke English, and looked interesting to Christopher.

“Stop speaking for me,” said Christopher to Ski, kind of direct, but not hatful.

“I can’t talk to you over this noise, come here,” she yelled, then with two and a half finger she waved Christopher on.

“I don’t necessarily like the way she’s waving me on, it’s kind of like a doggish, you know-to its master.”

The waitress came over, asked,

“Do you want me to move your drinks over to her table?” evidently, she was watching the movements, and Christopher pretended not to understand her broken English. She then went away.

“She wants you to come to her,” said Ski.

The waitress came over to their table again, “How much is her wine,” asked Christopher, “Four marks, sir,” she said, then he counted out the money slowly, put it on the table, “Then here, bring her whatever she’s drinking.”

“Cheers!” she said, holding up her glass of wine, looking at Christopher and Ski.

Christopher stood up this time, as she again was waving him on with those two and a half fingers, “Mademoiselle,” he said, “Would you like to dance?”

“Well of course, I’ve been waving you on for fifteen minutes now.” She said almost provokingly.

“Matter-of-fact, I don’t like the way you’ve been doing that finger thing, it looks like I’m suppose to be your trained dog.”

“Oh,” she said with a chuckle, “that’s kind of an ugly thing, you Americans are touchy,” she said, grabbing his hands before he changed his mind to dance, and holding him tightly, as if he was a rail, or post.

They danced several dances, and that was how they met, Chris Steward, and Christopher Wright.

“Have a cigarette,” she said, then offered Christopher one from her pack, he took it, she lit it, and they at down and laughed.

“I don’t smoke much,” said Chris, “It’s a dirty habit I’ve been trying to stop.”

“I smoke too much,” said the soldier boy, taking a puff of the cigarette, and drank his beer glass empty. He looked at the clock, and then his watch, his was a bit faster, “I should be going, it’s 10:00 O’ clock, and we have headcount, or bed check at midnight, I got to get a taxi or bus back to the base.”

Chris called the waitress, “The bill please,” and she paid it, said, “I have a car, don’t worry about getting back to the base, I’ll get you there in time, but let’s go to another club, I know one a mile or two from here.”

“If you like,” he said.

“You would like to stay with me, wouldn’t you?” she asked.

The waitress blushed as she gave her back some change.

“I mean, no disrespect,” she added, knowing he was sensitive, “but two make a party, not one, night loafer in Augsburg is velvety, I have friends I’d like you to meet.”

“That sounds interesting, but I also have a duty to be at the base by midnight, I must be in bed, myself in person.”

They were now in the car, and he asked, “Where did you learn you’re English?”

“At an English School, I am a manager of a café, among other things, and it helps because we serve a lot of GI’s.”

“Tell me about it,” asked Christopher.

“The school or the Pizzeria?” she asked as she drove deeper into the center of the city.

“You’re an awfully good looking soldier,” said Chris, “and let’s just keep it on the first date scale; I’ll tell you more about me if we go on a second date, ok?”

“Yes,” said Christopher….

Originally written in 2002, St. Paul, Minnesota, for the book, “A Romance in Augsburg.” Rewritten for “Days without Women,” shorter form, 1-2-2008.

Apr
17

Must See – The Black Forest, Germany



Black forest in Germany is known for its traditional customs, striking beauty as well as isolated farmhouses. Situated far from the Baden Wurttemberg, the area is famous for its variety of landscapes. The northern part of the it is densely wooded whereas open plateaus are common in the south. The center is dominated by broad valley meadows. Approximately two thirds of the overall area of the it in Germany comprises of mountains. The remaining part comprises of wine growing areas like Kaiserstuhl and Markgrafl as well as fertile Rhineland plain. It is known for its cuckoo clocks and makes one of the renowned tourist destinations in Germany. The major woodworking and timber industry are located in Black forest.

Cultivation has led to outstanding results in the black forest. Even today you will find the archetypal wide-roofed farmhouses nestled in Rolling Meadows and spread throughout the nation. You will certainly have a great time enjoying guided tours as well as a number of special activity days at the Vogtsbauernhof Open Air Museum. Over and above, you’ll also get an opportunity to explore the sixteenth to nineteenth century farm buildings and gather information about the life and work of the Black Forest farmers.

Lake Titisee, the famous European lake and scenery can be viewed from a captivating cruise boat. Karlsruhe, Freiburg and Baden-Baden are possibly the renowned cities and towns. Additionally, the area also serves as a home to Rottweil, the oldest town of Baden-Württemberg.

Thermal baths, heath resorts and spas are found in maximum concentration in the this area. The region also includes fourteen award winning mineral and thermal baths in Bad wildbad and Baden-Baden. Tourist enjoy the regional cuisines like ham, gateau, fruit brandies to name a few.

Similar to other tourist spots, the black forest area is also flooded with restaurants, shops and hotels. Starting from the luxurious hotels to the budget ones, there’s one to meet everybody’s taste.

It’s hotels offer cozy guestrooms together with other facilities so as to cater to the needs of both business as well as leisure travelers. Some of the hotels from where you can make a selection include-

  1. Best Western Hotel Hofgut Sternen Titisee
  2. Alemannenhof Hotel Hinterzarten
  3. TOP CountryLine Hotel Ritter Badenweiler
  4. Carlton Hotel Donaueschingen
  5. Zum Hirsch Hotel Pfalzgrafenweiler Herzogsweiler
Apr
4

Germany Has it All



Some of the most wonderful scenery in the world can be found in Germany; the place is simply stunning. From charming rustic villages to sophisticated city this country has it all. The history of this country changed the world, and today the people of Germany are at the heart of Europe. Germany has been the home of some of the most influential humans in history. Beethoven was born in this part of the worlds and so were Neitzsche, Kant, Karl Marx, Bach, Kafka, and Mozart; as well as many more.

It is impossible to imagine the world today without Germany bit it didn’t actually exist as a country until 1871; prior to this the land was part of the Holy Roman Empire. After the Second World War it was divided into East and West Germany only to be unified again in 1990. Today there are over 80 million people living in the Federal Republic.

A place that all tourists to Germany must see is Heidelberg; this is a university city and the scenery surrounding it will take your breath away. The city lies on the banks of the river Neckar. This is the home of universities and castles and is considered one of the most romantic places in Europe. Nearly four million people visit the city each year and most of the local population are involved in the service industry; a lot of this dealing with tourism. The city is home to some world renowned art festivals, and is considered a great city of learning.

Berlin was one of the most important cities during the last century and for many decades it was the place where Russia and the United States fought their cold war. The city was divided during this time by the Berlin Wall and when this fell in 1990 the whole world looked on in amazement. As well as being the home of political intrigue Berlin has also produced some great music. David Bowie moved there for a few years, and U2 recorded one of their albums there.

Another city in Germany that has had great impact on the rest of the world is Hamburg. This is where the Beatles first became famous after leaving their homes in Liverpool. For three years they played three shows a day and this is believed to be the reason why they became so good. It could easily be argued that without Hamburg there would have been no Beatles and the world of modern music would be a lot different. Hamburg is a northern industrial town that is well worth a visit because it offers a different view of Germany.

Freyburg is another part of Germany that is well worth a visit. This had been described as the Tuscany of the North and is the part of the country devoted to producing wine. The city contains some quaint architecture and the nearby scenery makes a visit worthwhile. If you enjoy wine then this is the place to go because of the many wine festivals there each year.

Mar
19

Germany Travel Tip – Potsdam’s St. Martin’s Day



On the 11th day of the 11th month each year special celebrations take place all over Germany. Also marking the start for the annual carnival season this day is widely known as St. Martin’s Day. Children walk the streets with self-made lanterns singing traditional songs, the St. Martin’s bonfire is ignited and traditionally a Martinsgans, Martin’s-Goose, is served to commemorate the life and legend of St. Martin.The public park of Potsdam, capital city of Brandenburg and very close to Berlin, is a good place to experience this old tradition and cozy restaurants are nearby, where you and your family can share a fresh, oven baked Martin’s Goose.

The history takes us far back to the 4th century and to the young Martinus, who served as an officer in the Roman army. One night he was riding on his horse through a town and was approached by a beggar asking him for warm clothes, since it was freezing cold. Martinus split his coat with his sword and gave a half to the beggar. Later Martinus quit his job in the Roman army and became a soldier of God and lived a life of an anchorite. When the story of his good deed spread he should become a bishop. Legend has it that Martinus was too shy to take this honor and tried to hide in a goose hutch. People equipped with lanterns, searched the half night for him and were finally alerted by the twitter of the geese. The geese were butchered and eaten, Martinus became Bishop Martin and was later canonized and still today his story is told and celebrations take place to remember the good deed of St. Martin.

Although this is a nice story to explain why a goose is on the menu on this particular day, there is a far more rational explanation to that. In the yearly calendar of the church- and farmers, the 11th of November marks the beginning of the winter and the 40 days lent before Christmas, where no fat food is allowed. It was also the day, when the farm laborers were laid-off, got paid and received a present and when the annual land lease had to be paid. As currency and presents a goose came in very handy, since money was not often used in the Middle Ages.

All that is left today, thinking of the goose, is the traditional way of preparing this festive meal. Basic rule is, the more aromatic the filling, the better the taste of the meat. In the north of Germany it is common to fill the Martinsgans with a mix of ground pork, onions, garlic and herbs while in the south soaked buns, chestnuts, roasted nuts, apples, plums, sugar, salt, vinegar and red wine are widely preferred. The goose is placed in an oven and constantly basted with its own stock to ensure the meat doesn’t dry out.

A good place to experience the traditional St. Martin’s Day is in the Public Park of Potsdam, Brandenburg. Celebrations start at 3:30 p.m., on the 11th November 2009. First you can watch or help tinker the lanterns later used in the romantic procession through the park. Before that the St. Martin’s Play, displaying traditional, colorful costumes is shown to all visitors, reminding of Martinus good deed. Finally a bonfire will close this event in the early evening hours and you might like to continue your St. Martin’s Day experience in the nearby restaurant. Beautiful located in the San Sanssouci Park, the Restaurant & Café Drachenhaus, Dragon-House, invites all guest to a delicious prepared Martinsgans. Starting at 7 p.m., a whole goose with green- and red cabbage, dumplings, potatoes and plenty of tasty brown gravy is served for a party of 4 people. Half a goose with all side dishes can be shared by 2 people. Reservations are recommended and you can contact them through their web site.

This is an example of what you can do in Potsdam while traveling in Germany. If you want learn more about Potsdam we compiled a more comprehensive Potsdam travel guide in collaboration with local residents that provides unique travel insider tips which you can use during your Germany vacation.

Mar
16

Christmas Traditions in Germany



Countries all across the world celebrate the winter solstice holiday season in their own unique ways. Some such as Christmas and Hanukah are religious celebrations, while others are non-religious celebrations of nature, people and the coming spring solstice. The reasoning behind the various holiday celebrations can sometimes differ greatly, but there are a surprising number of commonalities among the celebratory traditions. Over the thousands of years that man has celebrated the season, each group influenced others with their traditions.

Today each country and faith celebrates the holiday in their own unique ways, but more often than not you can detect common themes shared between countries. In this article we will take a closer look at how Christmas is celebrated in Germany, during which you will see that their traditions are not unlike those shared by England and America.

The youth in many countries celebrate a beloved mystical figure such as Santa Claus and Germany is no different; the German equivalent of America’s Santa and England’s Father Christmas is none other than the kindly Kris Kringle. Unlike Santa, Kris Kringle is not responsible for passing out gifts to excited children – that duty is reserved by another holiday figure: Christkind.

In Germany children will write letters to Christkind (translated as the Christ Child), much like American children send letters to Santa in the North Pole. The German children place their letters into an envelope heavily adorned with glue and sugar. These envelopes are placed on windowsills where they can glitter in the gentle light of the moon.

And as if the German youth didn’t already celebrate enough kindly eternal figures there is yet one more: Saint Nicholas! Traditionally children will stuff their shoes with hay, straw or carrots every Christmas Eve and leave them on their doorsteps. When Saint Nicholas rides by later that evening on his proud white stallion he stops momentarily by each door so that his stallion can feed on the treats left behind. To thank the generous children, Saint Nicholas will replace the eaten hay and/or carrots with delicious candies.

Few things capture the holiday spirits of people better than the age-old Christmas tree. While millions of people set up their Christmas tree each and every year, a good portion of them don’t even realize that the tradition originated from Germany. Germans love their Christmas trees just as much as Americans and Englishmen… in fact it’s not uncommon to see more than one tree in a German household!

There are conflicting myths about how the Christmas tree first came to be, but one of the most common stories tells the tale of an old woodcutter that stumbled across a young hungry child in the woods. He stopped chopping trees for a bit to befriend and feed the child. Once their meal was finished the two went on their separate ways.

Early during the next morning the child appeared in front of the woodcutter and his wife in the form of a spirit. He identified himself as Christkind and thanked the surprised woodcutter for his act of kindness on the previous day. To repay the woodcutter’s good will, Christkind gave him the sprig of an evergreen tree and told him the tree from which the sprig came would bear fruit year round. In response to this miraculous incident, each year Germans started felling evergreen trees each winter and decorating them with ornaments, candies, candles and more.

Once Thanksgiving arrives in America you can be sure of one thing: virtually every mall and shopping outlet will be adorned with many festive Christmas decorations. Germans know how to kick the holiday shopping system into high gear too… in fact they have a name for this tradition: Kriskringlemart. During this time vendors and merchants will line the various town streets and offer special sales for Christmas. The festive decorations, scents and sounds of the holiday create a true feast for the senses.

What Christmas would be complete without a seemingly endless assortment of tasty foods and drinks? If you were to celebrate Christmas while in Germany you would have your fill of indulgent treats such as spiced cakes, cookies, handmade candies and cocoa. Although all the above are enough to satisfy the palate there are two specialties Germans are renowned for: gingerbread and gluwein (which is a spiced red wine). Bakers also produce a special type of dough called Christbaumgeback, which is molded into various shapes and hung on Christmas trees as adornments.

Each country has their own festive traditions that take place during the winter holiday season, but few are quite as memorable as Christmas in Germany. Those lucky enough to vacation in this wonderful country during the holiday season will leave with memories that will last them a lifetime.

Copyright © Jared Winston, 2005. All Rights Reserved.

Mar
8

Medieval Markets in Germany



At various parts of the year a number of towns and cities will have a small medieval market. In late November the city of Nuremberg has the ‘Historischer Katharinenmarkt’. Like all these affairs this particular medieval market is great fun. All the stall holders are in medieval dress which is usually brown and beige woolen clothing often with a hooded cloak and a rope like belt, the recreation society members are all in military attire from the middles ages, chainmail and skirts with swords or spears, they tend to congregate around a wooden fire sitting on crudely made wooden chairs and talking and laughing in a way reminiscent of what it must have been like many centuries ago for the local lord’s retainers to be overseeing a market of the day.

There is usually entertainment at these events, in this case a juggler dressed as a jester and a band, in troubadour outfits, playing lively renditions of medieval tunes on medieval instruments – the drum and bag pipe. Such markets usually have stalls selling mead, monastery brewed ales and berry wines, tipples not often found at beer festivals the rest of the year.

The stalls are also an interesting feature of these markets, although some are the familiar wooden huts of the more common beer fests, most are colourful tents, more like pavilions, in fact, of the type we are used to seeing in Robin Hood movies of the 1960s from America, with pointed tops and flowing sides. Many of the wares on offer at these stalls are also surprising. There is usually a fortune teller at the market who does palmistry and tarot cards; you can get a scroll with your family name and its history, or buy a hand-crafted bow or a blacksmith forged sword. A stall selling armour is often present at these fairs as are stalls selling medieval costumes and woolen cloaks. There are herb and spice stalls, a bakery selling freshly baked bread from an on site wood stoked oven and a stall selling drinking horns.

Children are also catered for with one or two stalls selling toy wooden swords, bows and shields and even knight helmets. At this particular market there was a large pavilion set up in the Turkish style in which you can drink beer or tea and smoke on water pipes all whilst sat on large cushions at a low set Arabic metal filigreed coffee table. Of course bars abound, what would a medieval market be without stalls to purchase a flagon of ale (some even serve drinks in pewter mugs) or have something to eat. At many of these occasions they roast an entire ox or goat on a spit and slice the meat directly from the roasting beast.

During the market a parade takes place in which the recreation medieval society marches with banners fluttering in the wind, weapons held high, and musicians playing marching music.

Medieval markets have been part of the annual festivities in many German towns for many years and are only recently starting to be held in other countries.The whole thing is an entertaining day out for the whole family and if you get the opportunity I would highly recommend you go to see one.

Feb
3

Memories Of Italy VS Germany (Germany 2006)



To some listening to music takes them back to certain points in their lives’ and the things that were going about them at the time they perhaps first heard that particular song or musical piece yet with me; music is timeless. This meaning that I do not associate it with a particular time in the past yet as a part of my life which prompts certain feelings in me when I happen to be listening to a particular piece of music.

Films however have the effect of taking me back to certain points in my life as I sometimes feel as I did the first time I saw the film and remember the person I saw it with. This also being the way I feel about watching great football matches from the past which allow me to recapture those sensations which came over me at the time when I was watching them live. These being passion, thrill of triumph, sense of loss, despair, panic, ecstasy, analysis of the game and so many more thoughts and emotions which were going on in my mind while my eyes were receiving the images of a match which seemed of such consequence at the time; as if it could decide the fate of the entire planet.

This in fact being the reason, I enjoy watching games from the past, specially though not exclusively those which Italy played in and won. I, sometimes even enjoy games which Italy did not win yet held found moments such as Italy’s defeats against Brazil in both USA 94 and Argentina 78. Of course, I also enjoy those matches which did not even involve Italy such as Germany Vs. France from Spain 82 or Argentina Vs. Brazil from Italia 90 along with several other matches which truly captured the imagination at the time.

As for the Italy Vs. Germany of 2006, it was played on a Wednesday (like most semifinals), on a very hot day and on the 4th of July (Independence Day in the US) which in and of itself meant nothing to me personally though I was born in New York. As for the match itself, it was memories of past Italy Germany encounters which came to mind a lot more than how either team had made it to the semifinal. This due to neither team having been involved in any outstanding or specially difficult matches during Germany 2006 prior to the semifinal though Italy had been most fortunate against Australia. This to win on what even I considered to have been a nonexistent penalty in the last minute of regulation time.

One thing however which did strike me as coincidental though not particularly indicative of anything was that Germany was coming off an overtime win over Argentina in the quarterfinal. This seeming most odd how every time Italy had beaten Germany in a world cup; Germany had just won a match in overtime. This being the case in Mexico 70 when Germany was taken in to overtime by England, whom they went on to beat by 3-2 in their quarterfinal match. This while Italy defeated Mexico by 4-1 though in a match which was not as one sided as the score might lead one to believe.

This scenario even repeated itself in Spain 82 when Italy and Germany met in the finals. It being a case of Germany having gone 120 minutes against France to win in penalties in what had been a grueling match while Italy definitely had had an easier time of it against Poland whom they defeated by 2-0. I, to a certain extent could see history repeating itself as Germany had been taking in to overtime and even penalties in their previous quarterfinal victory over Argentina. This while Italy had emerged victorious over Ukraine by 3-0 though again in a match which was more problematic for the azurri than the score might indicate.

All of which seeming strange to me that the only times Italy had managed to beat Germany was when Germany had just come off playing an overtime match while Italy came off getting a relatively comfortable win. This however had not been the case when Germany had not come off playing an overtime game as on those occasions Italy and Germany had drawn at 0. This being what occurred when they met in Chile 62 and in Argentina 78. It, in fact being Germany who benefited more from the draw in 62. As they qualified for the quarterfinals while Italy was left out in the first round because of that result. In Argentina 78, Italy at least went on to play for 3rd place and in all fairness even a win would not have placed them in the final over the Netherlands as Italy would go on to loose by 2-1 to the Netherlands anyway. Of course, the above mentioned factors did not have much importance or then again perhaps it was a mere coincidence yet it was something which did call my attention concerning the history behind Italy vs. Germany matches in the world cup.

As for the place where I would watch the match, this almost went without saying that it would be San Lorenzo (Italian restaurant in Warsaw) with all those Italian fans. Some of whom were from the old country while others like myself, were of Italian descent and naturally there were those who simply cheered Italy on because they had some connection with Italy. The mood as can be expected was a festive one in San Lorenzo with tables being decorated and all the regulars present to hopefully watch Italy win and move on to their 6th final in 16 world cup appearances. I, for my part on that day had a great feeling about me that Italy could win this match. It being similar to the one I had had when Italy defeated Brazil in Spain 82 and though I knew beating Germany was not going to be an easy task; I simply had it in my mind that this was going to be Italy’s night. Naturally, I was aware of Germany’s strengths and their world cup history which included 3 world cups along with reaching the finals on 7 occasions plus two third places finishes and one fourth place finish yet my mind kept telling me this was our world cup.

The night was special and I could see that all those about me, who had suffered so much four years earlier during South Korea\Japan 2002 were present with looks of triumph about them which inspired my emotions even further to believe that ours would be to win. San Lorenzo, being full to capacity which had turned this once elegant restaurant in to an equally elegant bar with standing room only left for those who unlike myself were not regulars. It was something I will never forget being next to all those who were my San Lorenzo friends as the game was about to commence. I, for my part having come with a Polish friend of mine who though more of a basketball fan, did take enjoyment from the world cup; specially if it was a semifinal like this one was.

The game started and what excitement was in the air as I along with all those about me watched the game, commented while eating and drinking. I having ordered two large pizzas and beer while those about me opted for pasta and wine on this most sinfully hot Warsaw evening. As for the early conversation regarding the match, it as can be expected centered around the lineup which our coach; Marcelo Lippi had chosen to start with which went as follows:

Buffon (goalkeeper)
Materazzi
Carnabaro
Zambrotta
Grosso
Perrota
Gatusso
Totti
Pirlo
Camoranessi
Toni

It being the opinion of many about me that perhaps Inzaghi should be playing in place of Toni though Toni had scored 2 goals in Italy’s previous game against the Ukraine and was Italy’s top goal scorer of Germany 2006 or at least up and till that point. As for play itself, it started with both teams feeling each other out and a few light fouls here or there yet without malice and more with desires of being safe by those who committed them than causing injury or any such thing. Totti however did not take long to get in a shot on target from a long distance free kick at the 3 minute mark which though not enough to give Germany’s goalkeeper, Lehman much in the way of trouble; was a good effort. It letting the German’s know that they needed to worry about shots from outside their own penalty box. As for my friends and myself, it allowed us to see for ourselves that Totti was feeling up to the game. This in spite of not having fully recovered from an earlier operation which had left two metal plates in his ankle that still needed to be removed.

Of course, none of us were thinking this shot would score yet it did give us something to applaud as well as a chance to relax from the pressures fans like us go through every time their team takes the field in a world cup game in which the looser is left without a chance to go on to the final. It being clear that once a team is in the semifinal, they can no longer be eliminated. As even if they loose, they go on to play for third place yet it is by far preferable or at least in my opinion; to loose in the final than to win the match for third place. This shot even helped create a stadium like atmosphere in San Lorenzo and this despite the fact that most of us were seated and eating from plates but cheers and screams of “Italia” were as loud as if we had been in Milan’s “San Siro” or Rome’s “Olympic Stadium.

Germany, for its part like Italy also had players who were more than capable such as Klose, Podolski, Ballack and others and this Italy’s defense knew all too well that they needed to be on their toes during the whole match. As even the slightest slip up could lead to a German goal which in a tight affair could signify the difference between winning and losing. The game was in fact, one in which there was not much freedom being given by either side as this after all; was a semifinal which my friends and I could definitely feel in our anxieties as the minutes of the first half went by.

A chance however came when Pirlo sent a through ball to Perrota which beat the off-sides trap yet Lehman managed to avoid complications by coming off his line just at the right moment. Italy also had its scare when Ballack’s header fell on Pirlo’s shoulder in the penalty box yet since the ball was coming down; it was not given as a handball which would have been a definite penalty had it been considered as such. The game however continued with some yelling at the screen while others chanted and others like myself; simply suffered and breathed according to every play which took place on the field of play.

I had seen Italy play in the semifinal before yet there is something even more interesting about playing such matches against another member of the great four of world football as I have come to call them. These “great four” being Argentina, Germany, Brazil and Italy. As these teams are the ones which basically dominate world football by either getting to most of the world cup finals or having most of the great players. Naturally, other countries play well but these were the top and their having won 15 out of 18 world cups proved it. This being the reason why many of the most memorable matches or moments in football had involved one of these teams. This not to say that a semifinal against Spain or France would not have been something to watch but the tradition was there in a way which was undeniable.

Italy in all, I must say was having a great game and by the middle of the first half had already taken control of the midfield. Germany was always a threat with their forwards yet Italy’s midfield was having its way and clearly dominating play which meant that most of the action took place in Germany’s half of the field. German defense however was solid and anticipated well which made clear scoring chances not come so often but Italy was looking good; almost as if they were the ones who were playing in front of their own crowd.

Italy had more ball possession but this did not mean that Germany could not attack which they made clear they could do when Klose passed to Schneider (33 minutes in to the game); who blasted his shot over the post yet it was close. Naturally with this being a semifinal, our sense of drama had been augmented as we watched Buffon reach for that hard shot, to see it go safely out but we knew this could have just as easily been very bad news for Italy. The half ended at 0-0 and though it was far from being boring, there had not been many opportunities at either end with arguably the best scoring chance going Germany’s way when Schneider perhaps should have done better with his shot yet fortunately for us, the viewers at San Lorenzo; he did not. Italy however had in my opinion, despite this factor, slightly out played Germany. As their midfield had imposed its game on Germany though not to the point that it was total. Germany having even exerted more control at the end of the half.

The half however was over and as some of us took our turns going to the toilet along with getting a cigarette, talk centered around the game and what we could expect from the second half. Italy however we knew was strong and had perhaps one of the best teams we had ever fielded, to go along with such great teams of the past like the ones we had had back in 70, 82, 90 and 94. Italy’s team having players of physical power such as Materazzi and Toni along with creators like Totti and Pirlo while hard defensive minded midfielders like Gattuso fought for every ball yet did so in a way that was not so prone to committing fouls. This in contrast to Benetti who had played for Italy back in the 74 and 78 world cups.

The half time break ended with all of us enthusiastically going back to our places and drinks as by then most of us had finished eating. I for my part, however was experiencing a new kind of football fan which seemed to be almost as showy as the game. They being of the sort which shouted out when ever something happened and even wore the shirt of the Italian football team which was something I had done 4 years earlier but refrained from doing it after the 2002 world cup. This with the perhaps halfhearted believe that my Italian shirt had brought bad luck.

The second half was basically Germany taking slight control of the midfield though not really being able to do much with it in the way of creating scoring opportunities. The second half being slower than the first though our tension increased as the game got closer to the final whistle. This being most apparent in the way screams were directed at the screen as if we were right there in Dortmund; were the action was taking place instead of in an Italian restaurant in Warsaw called “San Lorenzo”. This while some of the words which were shouted by my friends not always being of the kind which I should place in this article yet were indicative of how much we wanted Italy to win.

A perfect example of Italian passion came when Germany’s goalkeeper crashed in to Perrota in a way that automatically made me think of the time Schumacher had taken out Battiston in Spain 82. The impact had not been of such devastation yet it did send some fear amongst us that Perrota might need to be substituted which fortunately for Italy; did not prove to be the case.

The game ended and overtime would be required to settle the matter. This being when ours became torture to know what ours would be for this world cup and in the history of our football. My friend, Enrrico even commentating on how one was required to suffer just to see one’s team win a world cup but most agreeing with me that it would be well worth the effort if Italy won. I, for my part as I tend to do when watching football matches, mentioned past encounters such as the Italy Vs Germany of 70 which had also finished tied after the regular 90 and likewise had required 30 minutes of overtime to settle the issue.

Of course, there was also the history which we all had in the back of our minds though none of us mentioned perhaps not wanting to be negative. This being how Italy had lost all 3 of their world cup matches which had ended up going in to penalties while Germany had won all 4 of theirs. Germany being so outstanding that out of all the penalties they had taken in those four penalty shootouts; only one had been missed. This while Italy had missed 7 out of 16 penalties which practically made it a must win situation for Italy during the upcoming period of overtime. It being as if Italy were playing a game which they had to win because a draw would pretty much mean certain defeat.

Overtime got underway and as it did, Girardino hit the post just 40 seconds after the referee had blown his whistle for the game to continue. This after a delightful maneuver to beat both Ballack and Lehman yet just managed to miss the target in an effort which perhaps deserved better but this was irrelevant to the fact that he did not score. Fate, if there be such a thing in football at that point seemed to be against us! As just at the two minute mark of overtime, Perrota violently crashed a shot in to the crossbar which left Germany goalkeeper Lehman; as a mere spectator. Italy had come ever so close on two occasions yet like they say in America “close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades” and football was neither one yet I felt Italy would win. This not even being the wishful thinking of most fans but a certain emotion that told me that this was our world cup and though some might get the impression that I feel this way during all of Italy’s matches; the truth is another. I, for instance not being overly sure of victory before Italy played France in 98 or Brazil in 94 yet I sensed its full force on that particular night.

Germany, of course had as much will to win as Italy. Specially since losing at home is not something any teams wishes to do in a world cup. It even being a vicious German shot which caught Materazzi in the head yet did not cause much in the way of damage but just a slight pain which did not require any outside attention. The first half of overtime was over and still the score of 0-0 remained with all our hopes and joys riding on almost every touch of the ball.

A huge roar was heard when Del Piero came in for Perrota. It being Del Piero who perhaps had not had such a good world cup in 98 and had missed golden chances against France in the European championship of 2000 yet that was the past. Del Piero was being given a chance to make amends which to a certain extent, he already had when he scored Italy’s equalizer against Mexico four years earlier in the 2002 world cup. Del Piero also being a favorite of all those around me who are fans of Juventus.

A scoring chance came Germany’s way 25 minutes in to overtime when Podolski got at the end of a fine cross yet missed timed his arrival which sent the ball wide but this could have been Germany’s break. Podolski finding himself unmarked in the penalty box yet perhaps in being over anxious to get the job done sent it wide.

A nice opportunity also came to Italy with ten minutes remaining yet in all fairness Germany’s defense did its job well to prevent Del Piero from getting a good shot on goal. Our reaction being one of near joy though some did make less than flattering comments for what they saw as another missed opportunity. We had a chance yet just a minute later, Podolski managed to get a great shot off which I do believe would have definitely scored if he had placed it more to the side or if perhaps; Buffon had not reacted with the speed with which he did. The score was still 0-0 but we had received a huge scare yet just two minutes went by till Del Piero shot wide but in all fairness with Germany’s defense playing the way it was; there was no real blame on him.

Time was running out and it really seemed that we would see penalties yet I felt that certain something which I had felt when Italy was losing to Nigeria by 1-0 in 94 that somehow we would get a goal before the end of the game. Of course, I knew there was a chance of penalties yet I felt that would not be necessary. As for those around me, they seemed to be shouting “goal” just about on every shot which they did in fact when Pirlo took a really nice shot from just outside the penalty box with one minute left in the game. Lehman however managed to send it for a corner kick and though Pirlo did not score; his efforts were rewarded with applause from the San Lorenzo faithful.

The corner was taken by Del Piero and this is what it all came down to. Del Piero’s ball hung up and was headed down to Pirlo, who sent a nice soft pass to Grosso, who had freed himself of Ballack and just before this player could cover hi; managed to get off a curling shot. A powerful shot it was that just went past the long out stretched arm of Lehman in to the back of the net. It had been a goal and bedlam was released as the shouts went all about of “goal” while drinks were tossed in to the air and hugging along with jumping up and down commenced. A table even being sent crashing down due to all the sheer delight yet it was thus that Italy had scored and nothing else mattered. Grosso, Grosso had done it and all of us felt that step closer to the final yet there was still time for an equalizer and though it was not likely that the Germans would get it; we did not want to assume that they could not.

Germany at this point had nothing to loose and went forward with everything they had while Italy defended with all the experience which had made their defense one of the best in the world. A Ballack shot went wide and we breathed a sigh of relief yet the game still had some time to be played which meant that we could not celebrate just yet.

Germany attacked and it was the ever solid Carnavaro, who they encountered at a time when all of us (this I can only imagine) were wishing the ball to be sent as far away from our penalty box as possible. Carnavaro in fact coming out with the ball after having won it and sending it forward which assured us that Germany was not going to score or at least not on that particular drive. The ball however was advanced and before we knew it, Italy went from defending to attacking as Giaquinta pulled two defenders toward him and simply back heeled it to Del Piero. This pass leaving Del Piero, one on a one with Leham, whom he simply gave no chance. As on this occasion Del Piero made no mistake in sending the ball in to the top part of the German goal and Italy in to the final.

It was funny how this lovely elegant restaurant had become a madhouse with celebrations of not only the goal but of victory which was now assured as what else could one call it? After all, Italy was wining by 2-0 with less than a minute remaining in overtime yet as all those about me shouted, hugged each other, jumped up and down, sent drinks in the air and simply were having the time of their lives; I looked at the TV screen where I saw a German girl. This young lady’s face and tears capturing the moment perfectly. Her despair being captured on camera and going all over the world. It seeming like the perfect image to contrast the joy that Italian players were feeling as the game was over. Germany would not even be taking out the ball for what perhaps at most would have been 30 seconds.

The words “andiamo a Berlino, andiamo a Berlino” (were going to Berlin) echoing in my ears till today and every time I think of those two goals while everybody seemed to chase Del Piero. We had not won the world cup yet but we were in the final and with San Lorenzo being a place of class champagne was passed out on the house. After the match some of us getting in to cars and going to other places in Warsaw just to celebrate and demonstrate to others that we had simply won.

Jan
10

Wuerttemberg Memorial Chapel – Tribute to a Young Queen



Perched atop a vineyard-covered hill, the lonely Wuerttemberg Memorial Chapel enjoys a magnificent view of the Stuttgart area’s wine country. Although it sits in reverent silence, the chapel proclaims the timeless love of King Wilhelm I for his deceased bride, Katharina. The two now share this secluded resting place, together for eternity.

In 1819, Wilhelm and the people of Wuerttemberg lost their beloved queen at the tender age of 31. This queen had given much of her own money to further the social development of the area, including a girls’ school, hospitals, and an institution for charity – even during the extremely difficult years of famine. The enormous Wuerttemberg Hill, home to the family’s old 11th century fortress, had been a favorite place of Katharina’s. Shortly after her death, Wilhelm had the ancient fortress leveled so he could build something truly symbolic of his devotion for her. Italian architect Giovanni Salucci had been employed as the court architect and was soon put to work designing an appropriate new haunt for young queen.

The result of Salucci’s work was a neo-classic rotunda with an airy, arching dome inspired by Rome’s Pantheon. Towering Corinthian columns, stucco rosettes, and marble statues all of the palest hues reflect peace and rest as the dome’s incoming sunlight is subdued to a gentle glow. Warmly detailed cast iron accents the coolness of the circular room and is used for the doors, window frames, and a ventilated portion of the floor directly under the soaring dome. Since Katharina was a member of the Russian Orthodox Church, Wilhelm made sure that this aspect of his wife’s existence was also remembered with fitting icons and services. Even to this day, Orthodox worship is conducted in the chapel once a year on Whit Monday. Katharina quietly sleeps below in the chapel’s dark crypt, surrounded by a massive white sarcophagus, where she patiently waited for Wilhelm to join her 45 years later. Their daughter, Marie, lies nearby and remains the only other soul in the tomb. Although the crypt is simple and unadorned in décor, the cast iron floor above allows light to pour in and paint decorative patterns on the cold stones that support the chapel’s foundation. Since this iron floor/ceiling lies right under the dome, the royal couple enjoys an everlasting view of the heavens.

In addition to being a monument of love and Italian architecture, the chapel is something of an acoustical phenomenon. Sounds originating in the crypt reverberate off the hard stone walls as well as travel up through the cast iron floor to bounce around the spacious dome. Secondary echoes from the crypt also travel skyward to create deafening slap-echoes which live several seconds before dissipating. This amazing sound effect brings an unusual energy and life to a place enveloped in death and remembrance.

On its isolated peak on Wuerttemberg Hill, the memorial chapel leaves the visitor with a profound sense of marital love. Visible from even miles away, the structure immortalizes one man’s devotion to his wife. Romantic, too in the sense that the pair have this secluded spot to themselves forever.