Little Liguria in northeast Italy is the Italian Riviera. It faces the Ligurian Sea and its climate starts to warm in the early spring. To avoid crowds plan on a spring visit. You won’t regret it. The Yacht Club of the upscale resort of San Remo, population under 60 thousand, lying about 90 miles (145 kilometers) southwest of Genoa hosts the International Italian Dragon’s Cup in late March. While the entry fee is a mere 250 Euros (less than 400 dollars per boat), you do have to provide proof of insurance against claims for a minimum of one million Euros. In spite of the fact that this race is held in Italy, English is the official language of this Regatta. So maybe I will reconsider and you’ll see me there.

The towns of Rapallo population about 34 thousand and Santa Margherita Ligure population about 10 thousand, and the village of Portofino population about 500, are close to each other and some 20 miles (30 kilometers) east of Liguria’s capital, Genoa. In April they get together to present Cartoons on the Bay, the International Television and Multimedia Animation Festival. The 2010 edition, number 14, takes place from April 15 to April 18. Actually most of the activities are in Rapallo and the closing dinner is in Portofino. The program is divided into activities for cartoon professionals and for the general public. The Seventeenth Century Villa Durago in Santa Margherita Ligure offers seminars to the professionals. But even if you’re an amateur you should visit this beautiful Villa and the surrounding city. If you can’t make this festival or if you can and are able to stay for a while don’t miss San Giorgio Bonfire on the 23rd of April in the Portofino Piazzetta. By the way, you are advised to stay in the other two cities rather than in even pricier Portofino, even during the off-season.

In early May Liguria’s capital, the port city of Genoa, population about 600 thousand holds what they call Slow Fish, a celebration of the seas. There is a traditional fish auction, demonstrations on how to cook fish and seafood, and lots to eat. Save room for traditional Genoa desserts. This program is associated with the Slow Food Movement that concentrates on food quality and protecting the environment.

The coastal city of Camogli, population about 6 thousand is located 12 miles (20 kilometers) east of Genoa. Their Sagra del pesce (Fish festival), held each year on the 2nd Sunday in May, celebrates the feast of St Fortunato the patron saint of fishermen. A unique feature is the monster frying pans (we’re talking about 12 feet or 4 meters in diameter) that cook fresh fish in the open on the last day of the festival. Everyone, and we’re talking thirty thousand participants, gets fried fish and it’s free. Make sure to try the “Camogliesi” pastry balls filled with rum-flavored custard.

Ligurian cuisine is similar to Piemontese, delicious dishes prepared from fresh ingredients with not a hint of spaghetti Bolognese, meatballs or lasagne.
Most traditional Ligurian restaurants offer starters (antipasti), which normally consist of a variety of small dishes such as roast peppers, salami, stuffed courgettes, Parma ham, aubergines etc. Then to follow a pasta dish (Primo piatto), the most popular is trofie al pesto, which is Liguria’s own pasta with its famous pesto sauce. Next (secondo piatto) is a choice of rabbit (my favourite cooked in wine and herbs), roast veal, wild boar stew, cima alla Genovese (A thin slice of veal taken from the animals stomach, sewn up on two sides to form a pocket, then stuffed with herbs, carrots, marjoram, eggs, cheese and offal, served cold.
For desert if you can manage it, an assortment of semi-freddos and ice creams.

Having spent many years in Liguria and eating in too numerous restaurants too mention, having read the guidebooks of where to eat and being bitterly disappointed.
I would like to let people know about some of the best restaurants near Savona, which have been consistently good, many off the beaten track but well worth the visit! Most recommended by our good friends and locals Mauro and Enza

My favourite is Locanda della Nonna in Ellera a few miles inland from Albisola Superiore, this is a family run restaurant with excellent food and service, there is no menu you will be served with a selection of antipasti, given a choice of 3 pasta dishes and 5 main courses. Everything is superb, but the favourite is the homemade ‘fior di latte’ ice cream with a choice of chocolate or cherry sauce.

Via Rosselli N. 29, Ellera, Tel 019 49009

Another favourite is Ristorante da Tina; this is situated on the outskirts of Savona in a town called Quiliano. This restaurant gives you 3 choices of antipasti, 2 choices of pasta and 3 choices of main course; yet again divine home made food including the pasta. This restaurant is very busy lunch and dinner you need to book.

Piazza Caduti Partigiani 21, Quiliano. Tel 019 887116

If you visit Liguria you have to try ‘Farinata’ it is a very thin cooked layer of chickpea flour, Liguria olive oil and water. Traditionally baked in a wood fired oven in an artisan ‘testo’ a wide copper roasting dish. The white farinata made with wheat flour is normally flavoured with onion, sausages, rosemary or artichokes.
The best place I have eaten farinata is in Albissola Marina, 5 mins from Savona at a family run restaurant called ‘La Nicchia’ where it is offered as a starter, there are always queues for this eating spot so you once again need to book.

Via Matteo Repetto 102, Albissola Marina. Tel 019 488555

Oddera is another family run restaurant in Mioglia 30mins inland from Savona.
They are on the border of Liguria and Piemonte and strictly are Piemontese but well worth the visit, typical piemontese food, various antipasti, and a choice of 3 pastas, 4 main courses. My favourite dessert is Bonet a cold chocolate pudding made with crushed amaretti biscuits and brandy, to die for!!

Buon Appetito!! : Clare Shipston

http://www.italianproperties.org

I know, I know. Think Italy, and most people think Rome, or Florence, or Tuscany. But there’s another Italy, you know. Less touristy. More local. More real. It’s called Liguria.

So – where is it? It’s a coastal region in the north-west of Italy: one of the smallest of the Italian regions. And I love it because of it’s picturesque little villages, and towns.

Because I live in the UK, I can fly to Nice airport France, on Friday evening. It’s easy to collect a hire car, and only minutes before you cross the border into Italy, winding through autostrada tunnels high above Monaco before dropping down into ancient Roman city of Ventimiglia.

Small hotels abound. But I prefer to shop late at one of the supermarkets in Bordighera. This was popular with English expatriates in the twenties and thirties (there is still evidence of their presence: The English Library, for instance).

And then I drive north into the hills, heading towards the medieval town of Dolceacqua – literally, sweet water. The ruined castle is perched dramatically above the village, and you can wander through narrow alleyways and enjoy cappuccinos in wide courtyards.

Saturday morning means a lie-in. But the light is too bright and the sun too enticing to stay inside for long. Time to walk the Via Alta, part of the tourismo bike trail that winds along the skyline.

You can look down on the village and walk far into the hills, surrounded by verdant, green forest (in the spring). In summer it is drier, and the ground is dusty.

Ligurian food is characterised by strong flavors and simplicity. Local trattoria abound and even in the current economic climate you can find good value. And the local red wine is just what you need to speed you towards a Saturday afternoon siesta.

In the evening I love walking along the beach in Bordighera. The promenade extends for almost a mile – the market takes place thereon Tuesdays and Thursdays – but at night it is refreshingly cool. You can see the lights of Monaco twinkling along the coast. And you can have enjoy wonderfully cooked sea food in one of the two restaurants on the sea front.

The weekend goes too quickly. That’s the problem with Liguria. There is so much to see. If you haven’t been, I recommend it wholeheartedly.